rear wheel studs

Various setups, tips, etc.

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qikteg
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rear wheel studs

Postby qikteg » June 21st, 2013, 12:32 am

Has anyone changed their rear studs? not really wanting to necessarily change the whole bearing (because they're obscenely expensive here in australia), so just wanting to see how hard it is to change out a stud. One of the threads has been warped, so it goes on tight, but is being stripped with every removal. i figured i will want to change all 4 (or 8, while i'm at it) so that no single stud is newer than any other, but do i have to remove the wheel bearing to remove the stud, or can i tap it out/wind it back in whilst on the car.

thanks!

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Re: rear wheel studs

Postby Biscuit » June 21st, 2013, 8:43 am

You will need to remove the bearing assembly to replace the studs.
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Re: rear wheel studs

Postby MinkelR » June 21st, 2013, 10:20 am

Just remove the rotor and undo the 32 mm nut on the axle and pull the hub off. Hitting them out while on the car may damage the wheel bearing.
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Re: rear wheel studs

Postby qikteg » June 21st, 2013, 10:41 am

Yeah, the FSM doesn't make it look too difficult. How would i determine whether the bearings are worth replacing? found a US supplier that can supply a pair for $120 including postage.
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Re: rear wheel studs

Postby evtsteward » June 21st, 2013, 12:18 pm

Haven't heard of too many rear bearings going bad. If you have the spare $$ I'd say do it, if you're looking to keep the Quint forever. Prices aren't going down and availability, well, sheesh! :roll:
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Re: rear wheel studs

Postby Biscuit » June 22nd, 2013, 8:42 am

Chock the front tires, jack up the rear, place your hands on the top and bottom of the tire and push the top while pulling the bottom in a rapid motion. If you feel any knocking/motion/movement the bearing is worn.
If there is no movement you do not need a bearing.

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Re: rear wheel studs

Postby d16a3teg » June 22nd, 2013, 11:41 am

Best to use a press to push the old studs out and then press the new ones in.

The stud has a series of grooves cut around it just below the head of the stud. This is to stop the stud from turning when you tighten the wheel nuts up. As mentioned above if loose you'll feel the movement, if wearing and not quite loose you may hear a humming from the rear of the car when driving along - this normally indicates that there is clearance between the balls in the bearing and the cage of the bearing causing a slight harmonic.

Did you try CBC bearings? I got mine from them a while back and it was quite a reasonable price.
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Re: rear wheel studs

Postby qikteg » June 25th, 2013, 9:31 pm

Has anyone actually replaced a rear wheel stud? Just need some specs on the studs themselves, as the local spares place couldn't give me any details eh length, pitch, knurl. Etc.... Worst case scenario is ill take the whole bearing down, but I just wanted to make sure the study could definitely be removed...
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Re: rear wheel studs

Postby d16a3teg » June 27th, 2013, 1:27 pm

Replacement wheel bearing from CBC came with studs already fitted to it. The other option is go to a bolt shop and they should have a look up catalogue for the size from memory 14mm x 1.5 pitch - but could be wrong on that sizing.

have a read of this one -

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech ... ewall.html
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d16a3teg
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Re: rear wheel studs

Postby d16a3teg » June 27th, 2013, 1:29 pm

Replacement wheel bearing from CBC came with studs already fitted to it. The other option is go to a bolt shop and they should have a look up catalogue for the size from memory 14mm x 1.5 pitch - but could be wrong on that sizing.

have a read of this one -

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech ... ewall.html

or this one for ARP studs

http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/ARP_Whe ... 311-1.html
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Re: rear wheel studs

Postby qikteg » June 28th, 2013, 9:26 am

update:

Bearing removed, not too much drama, just followed the FSM + Haynes manual with respect to removing the caliper, bracket and rotor.

bought and used an impact screwdriver to remove the seized screws - that worked pretty effectively.

removed offending stud with a mallet in a vice - came out pretty easily.

*edit* so here's what we need:

Thread: 12x1.50
Knurl Diameter .485" = 12.3mm
Under Head Length = somehere between 1.85" - 2" is probably a good length - (47mm to probbaly 55mm is good)

Here are the different options that are availabe:
ARP - 100-7709 (note: UHL - 47mm - this should suffice, depending on how thick your rims are - OEM is 47.5mm) - $20-$30 for 4

OEM - 90113-SD2-005 - Nagoya Rashi Wheel Bolt - this is OEM replacement
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/oem-part/a ... 13-sd2-005

Dorman - 610-408 - reported to be OEM replacement also - they want to charge me $30 in postage to AU per piece. forgeddaboudid.

NOTE: Nice Products NS327 is too short - only 40.1mm UHL - with rims, you would barely catch the thread with the nut, let alone get it tight enough to feel confident that the nut is secure.

Now that i've done it once before, i'll take pictures detailing the wheel bearing removal once i get the right wheel bolts. depending on OEM replacement, i'll either go with them or with the ARP's.
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