How to for torsion bars and other miscellaneous DIY

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How to for torsion bars and other miscellaneous DIY

Postby Mikakey » July 1st, 2014, 10:11 am

I think a lot of people, including me, have been wanted to have something like this to go by. I found this last night while doing a search on how to install torsion bars(doing mine today). I remember this from the old site before the crash. I take no credit for the guide, who ever wrote it up did a great job. I'm just simply reposting it.

After searching I found more How-to's(once again I take no credit for these, they were reposted from the old g1teg before the crash)
Rear sway bar install: ... 0Sway.html
Custom AEM cold air intake: ... ntake.html
Clear Corner Modification: ... ermod.html
Adjustable panhard rod: ... nhard.html
D16A1 valve adjustment: ... 20adj.html
Header install: ... stall.html

Full torsion bar install link with pictures: ... 20bar.html

Torsion Bar Installation

Installation Years: 1986 - 1989

Estimated Time: N/A


Required Tools & Parts:

Hand Tools / Socket Set

To begin this installation you will need a pair of jackstands and a floorjack. It may be better to jack the car up using the front center jack point and place the stands on the jackpoints located just aft of the front wheels. However, I placed the floorjack just aft of the jackpoints on the side of the car, and then slid the stands into place. Either way should work fine. Once supported on stands, be sure to place a block of wood or something similar behind the rear tire(s).

In the picture on the left, you will see the stock Integra torsion bars (black), and the 23mm OPM bars (white). As you can see, the 23mm bars are about an inch shorter in length. Due to this difference, it is imperative that you use the '84-'87 Civic/CRX torque tubes. You should be able to pick a pair up at a local junkyard for relatively cheap. I got mine of an '84 Civic for $50/pr. Kind of steep, but I needed them. So you just have to make a decision. :)

You can better see the difference in the torsion bars here. After the wheel is removed, it may be helpful to remove the strut from the steering knuckle. This step isn't mentioned in the Helms manual, it was only done here to install the poly bushings in the lower arm. Unless you are replacing the bushings, this step is not necessary.

Support the lower arm with the floor jack, so as to remove the load from the torsion bar. Remove the end cap on the torque tube by (2) 12mm bolts. It may be stubborn to get off, simply work at it with a flat screwdriver, being careful not to cut the rubber cap underneath. Once the cap is off, take a pair of snap-ring pliers and remove the 30mm circlip. Remove the cap on the front of the lower arm, and tap the bar forward from the rear, just enough to clear the end so you can remove the front clip. Once this clip is off, tap the bar back through the lower arm and remove from the rear. There may be rust and/or dirt built up inside the tube, so you may be on this step for a bit of time. It also may be easier to move the bar back and forth if the adjustment nut is completely removed. If you do this, be sure everything is properly supported. You don't want anything springing off on you and possibly causing damage. In fact, removing the adjustment nut is necessary, because you will be removing the Integra tubes.

Here, Tony is deburring some of the splines on the Civic torque tubes. Just for reference, you can see the key in the tube at about 1:00, just above the file. This step may or may not be necessary in your case, just use your own judgment. If so, just take care not to damage the splines. On the right, you can see the difference in the Integra and Civic/CRX torque tubes. You also see the stock rubber bushings, as compared to the polyurethane bushings.

When reinstalling the new torsion bars, be sure to grease the splines. Note that the bars are stamped 'L' and 'R' for left and right. However, as I quickly found out, this left and right is looking at the front of the car, not from the driver's seat. In other words, the bar stamped 'L' is for the passenger side, and the bar stamped 'R' is for the driver's side. It may be easier to slide the torsion bar through the torque tube before you actually get back underneath the car. Simple slide the front of the bar through the tube so that you can insert it into the lower arm. It may also help if you mark the outside of the tube with a Dremel or something similar to locate the key. I thought I might have to cut away a spline in order for the car to sit the way I wanted, however I test fit the bars first just to make sure. They slid right in, and when dropped down, immediately gave me wheel tuck. So I had to readjust.

Reinstall the bars in reverse. Once the splines in the lower arm are engaged, tap the bar forward until the rear splines engage, then just a bit further to clear the end of the bar past the lower arm. Just enough to reinstall the clip on the front of the bar. Next, tap the bar back through the lower arm and reinstall the front rubber cap. Reinstall the 30mm circlip using the snap-ring pliers, and then the end cap. NOTE: Due to the shorter torque tubes, the stock mounting holes will not line up. You will need to drill some new mounting holes to properly mount the end cap. At the time, I didn't do this. I simply fabricated a metal strap, using the stock mounting holes, to overlap the mounting flange on the end cap. This is only temporary.

The above pictures pertain to the driver's side, the same procedure applies for the passenger side. After completing the install, you can drop the car back down and stand back and see how it sits. You can always adjust the bars to give you the proper ride height you desire.
Blue 1987 Integra
B20VTEC with Stage 2 Exedy clutch and lightweight flywheel, DC headers, custom exhaust with APEXi muffler, and Hondata S300 tune.
Upgrade Motoring 27.5mm torsion bars with KYB GR-2s and B&G rear springs.

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